Its because it is true. Just like the best training for football is football and the best training for basketball is basketball.
The demands on the fingers/hands/grip in climbing if very different to things that you can do in a gym or with grip trainers aimed at non-climbers. Normal everyday climbing is far more stressful and demanding to fingers than barbell training or squeezing a gripper.
If climbing was less demanding, then it may be worth looking into these tools/exercises for opportunity to overload. But will not be able to create any useful overload. As far as your climbing goes, fingers are you weak link. Comparatively it does not matter how strong any other part of your body is.
To create overload I have observed people climbing with arms only, on overhanging faces with weighted vests. If that is not overloading your grip then I dont know what is.
Climbing centres have lots of finger exercise apparatus like pull up bars on which you grip with just fingers. And ladders created from rock like bumps where the aim is to throw yourself upwards to the next one.
These types of things is what you need.
I mostly agree with you. I thought you were saying something different. That's not usually what people mean when they say: "The best training for climbing is climbing." What people usually mean is that anything other than actual climbing is less than optimal. By climbing they mean doing actual routes and problems. They do not include campusing and hangboarding as actual climbing.
When I say training, as opposed to climbing, I'm talking about hangboarding. I tried to explain that I only chose pinching as an example so that I could relate to grip enthusiasts.
You're a pretty advanced boulder. I don't think simply climbing is going to produce enough adaptations.
You don't get better at a sport by simply scrimmaging. Basketball players and football players practice distinct skills one at a time. The same should be true with climbing. Climbing a route with random holds isn't going to make you better. You'll need to train reps and sets on a fingerboard or campus board using specific grips. A crimp and a sloper use different muscles, and you're not going to improve your sloper strength by getting a forearm pump from crimping. Take care of your fingers too, but you probably know that.
I think that gluteal strength is extremely important for climbing. That's how you hug the wall and rest your arms.
Best of luck!
I also don't think barbell finger rolls would be a bad idea
http://www.ironmind.com/ironmind/ope...nsofcrush.html also check the two finger utility gripper on the right side.
Bookmarks