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Thread: Sloping floors: How much is too much?

  1. #11
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    Jul 2017
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    I too lift in my garage and have OCD. I don't use a platform, just a single layer of stall mats. I have my rack arranged so that I face uphill to eliminate any side to side height differences. My lifting shoes have a 3/4" heel rise. The slope of the floor winds up being ~1/8" over the length of my shoe. That brings the effective heel rise to 5/8". Perfect. I also deadlift facing up hill. That keeps the bar from rolling away from me. It doesn't really roll much with that degree of slope unless someone gives it a little push. You know, like the kids do when I'm not looking. Dead wedges come in handy here.

  2. #12
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    May 2018
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    My floor slopes as well. It doesn’t cause any issues squatting, benching, or pressing, but it does cause my bar to roll away when deadlifting or power cleaning. Solution was to put some foam mats under where the bumper plates go, so an indentation is formed where the bar can settle.

    Unfortunately this also causes the bar to go to exactly the same spot every time which can cause problems with my pull set up. I sometimes have to stand up between reps to make sure the bar is over the mid foot. More of a problem on cleans than deads.

  3. #13
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    Jun 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfsully View Post
    Oh, I am definitely overthinking. How wide are the plywood shims you put in, and how many gradations in height do you have?
    The fiberboard sheets are 1/8" thick, 4' x 8'. My garage has a 1" drop over 8', so I needed 7 of them. But I replaced four of them with a 1/2" sheet of plywood, because the plywood was cheaper.

    And my memory was faulty. Of course there were cuts. Either the cuts were so easy they made no impression or so traumatic I've repressed the memory. Maybe I had the HD guy cut them for me?

    There were 3 cuts. Two of the fiberboard sheets were cut into two 3' x 8' and two 1 x 8' pieces. The last sheet was cut into two 2' x 8' sheets. There was no need to cut the plywood.

    I laid the pieces down so the low side has 7 thicknesses (the plywood counts as 4) and the high side has 0. The stack drops 1/8" with each foot upslope, but the floor rises 1/8", so it evens out. Technically, the low side ended up about an 1/8" too low (one foot upslope is at the same distance from the floor), but this is unnoticeable.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn Ammons View Post
    The fiberboard sheets are 1/8" thick, 4' x 8'. My garage has a 1" drop over 8', so I needed 7 of them. But I replaced four of them with a 1/2" sheet of plywood, because the plywood was cheaper.

    And my memory was faulty. Of course there were cuts. Either the cuts were so easy they made no impression or so traumatic I've repressed the memory. Maybe I had the HD guy cut them for me?

    There were 3 cuts. Two of the fiberboard sheets were cut into two 3' x 8' and two 1 x 8' pieces. The last sheet was cut into two 2' x 8' sheets. There was no need to cut the plywood.

    I laid the pieces down so the low side has 7 thicknesses (the plywood counts as 4) and the high side has 0. The stack drops 1/8" with each foot upslope, but the floor rises 1/8", so it evens out. Technically, the low side ended up about an 1/8" too low (one foot upslope is at the same distance from the floor), but this is unnoticeable.
    Very helpful, thanks. This is simpler than my plan for 8x8 grid of wood screws and countless fender washers to gradually shim it up.

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