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Thread: chromoly the intermidiot

  1. #2031
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    Jul 2016
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    Montreal
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    You'll have to get back to training non-dominant hand flipping off once healed. I suggest sets of 5.

  2. #2032

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    Quote Originally Posted by chromoly View Post
    Bouldering
    1 x V0
    3 x 1 x V1
    The second one took me multiple tries
    5 x 0 x V2
    Grip was too tired, couldn't hold on to the hand holds.

    I successfully jumped down from the top of the wall, not once but TWICE. Apparently I am a natural at climbing, say my roommates. I move well on the wall, I just didn't have the grip strength today.

    Signed up for an intro to climbing class next weekend. Stay tuned for more hilarious antics
    Just did this Sunday, the place I went had VB (basic), then 0-6. I found the V1s doable on rest, but if I did a V0 and tried to V1 right after I would lose my grip. Came so so so close to a couple V2s. Did yours also have traverses, no hands, no feet, sit start etc kind of junk?

    I might be slightly hooked. 16 bucks for the day, I think I could talk myself into spending that a few times a month. Definitely have to schedule around deadlift days though, I laughing tried my CoC yesterday, couldn't close it with either hand.

  3. #2033
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    2,651

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirimiti View Post
    You'll have to get back to training non-dominant hand flipping off once healed. I suggest sets of 5.
    Excuse you! I have been doing plenty of non-dominant hand flipping off* while my finger is broken**.

    *I alternate between a middle finger splint and buddy taping the finger to my ring finger
    **it is, in fact, broken.*** On Tuesday, I had an X-ray to confirm.
    ***just in time to skip 6-8 weeks of training before a meet in 7 weeks! NBD

  4. #2034
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    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgeorg View Post
    Did yours also have traverses, no hands, no feet, sit start etc kind of junk?
    I know not what all those words mean in the context of climbing. (I don't know much about climbing.)

    If your grip is dead after climbing, maybe don't climb as long per session...?

    If you don't want to get a membership, some places have punch cards. You pay in advance for 5 or 10 visits, and it's cheaper per visit than paying individually each time.

  5. #2035

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    Quote Originally Posted by chromoly View Post
    I know not what all those words mean in the context of climbing. (I don't know much about climbing.)

    If your grip is dead after climbing, maybe don't climb as long per session...?

    If you don't want to get a membership, some places have punch cards. You pay in advance for 5 or 10 visits, and it's cheaper per visit than paying individually each time.
    Honestly, I just kind of used context as I went. And skipped things I had no idea about.

    I'm gonna just go for getting stronger. Hopefully no broken fingers though. I definitely need to figure out where it could fit in with training to keep recovery issues to a minimum, though I have some thoughts. Or I could just pretend I never went and didn't like it, since it's not like I need *yet another thing*. If I fail at that, I'll definitely see if they have a bulk buy deal.

  6. #2036

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    Quote Originally Posted by chromoly View Post
    Excuse you! I have been doing plenty of non-dominant hand flipping off* while my finger is broken**.

    *I alternate between a middle finger splint and buddy taping the finger to my ring finger
    **it is, in fact, broken.*** On Tuesday, I had an X-ray to confirm.
    ***just in time to skip 6-8 weeks of training before a meet in 7 weeks! NBD
    Ah nuts, how long you suppose that's gonna take till you can lift? Anything you can do with it broken and taped up/splinted?

  7. #2037
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    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgeorg View Post
    Honestly, I just kind of used context as I went. And skipped things I had no idea about.

    I'm gonna just go for getting stronger. Hopefully no broken fingers though. I definitely need to figure out where it could fit in with training to keep recovery issues to a minimum, though I have some thoughts. Or I could just pretend I never went and didn't like it, since it's not like I need *yet another thing*. If I fail at that, I'll definitely see if they have a bulk buy deal.
    After training, either immediately after, or a day after? My plan was to climb Sundays after lifting.

    Quote Originally Posted by damufunman View Post
    Ah nuts, how long you suppose that's gonna take till you can lift? Anything you can do with it broken and taped up/splinted?
    I have a follow-up appointment 9 days from now. We'll see what the doc says then. For now, the swelling has gone down so I have considerably more range of motion than even a few days ago. Still a little bit of pain if I'm not careful with my hand.

    To my understanding, it's about 4-8 weeks to heal, then another 2 weeks of minimal activity on the finger. I may go to the gym just to do machine stuff today. I think I'll be able to front squat as long as I don't do a full grip on the bar (i.e., just index finger on my left hand). OHP and bench press are out of the question, I think, because I cannot grip the bar. RIP (even more) upper body lifts

    My plan is to compete in the Fall Classic anyway, since I have friends (a UCLAPL friend and Coach Dan from Horn's gym) signed up to lift and the meet is non-refundable. I was probably going to do that a token squat anyway... now all of my lifts will be token lifts! I'll just go and be loud and eat doughnuts.

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