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Thread: Rusted Bushing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    489

    Default Rusted Bushing

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    It's with great shame that I say my barbell went into storage for about a year.
    It has gotten much more than damp during that time and the I.D of the sleeve has completely rusted onto the bar.

    I know you wouldn't have ever needed to fix mistreatment of gym equipment this bad, but do you have any advice for how I should approach fixing this? I have tried wd-40, mallets from rubber through to carbon steel, and differential heating of the sleeve/bar with propane.

    My plan is to either get it acid dipped or soda blasted once disassembled.

    Joe.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    53,697

    Default

    You fucked up. Get a new bar. We pay for our mistakes.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Provo, Utah
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    520

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rippetoe View Post
    You fucked up. Get a new bar. We pay for our mistakes.
    Yes. He did.

    But...

    Take some diesel and some automatic transmission fluid. Soak the bar in a 50/50 brew overnight. Take it out and heat up the bar until it's too hot to touch--BUT NO HOTTER or you'll kill the heat treat!!! For reference, you can't hold on to 150F too long because it's too hot. That's about right.

    Start tapping with a hammer all around the joint--smack the end of the bar a few times. I bet it will break free. We have also heated up parts with a torch and melted wax into the joint. It wicks in and lubes up the bond so it will free up. Once you get a tiny bit of movement keep working it. You're almost there.

    Finally--don't do that again

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Harker Heights, Texas
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    Default

    Did you try vinegar?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Norther Michigan
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Kroil and let it soak a few days, then I'd get on it with a couple of big ass pipe wrenches.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rippetoe View Post
    You fucked up. Get a new bar. We pay for our mistakes.
    Ah shit. This ones out of production or no longer for sale in Aus.
    I won't forget this one.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Paradise Valley, BC
    Posts
    1,917

    Default

    Try using Kroil, which is the best penetrating lubricant I've found. It was one of very few penetrating oils that would loosen up heat corroded fasteners on jet engines/industrial turbines when I used to maintain them. WD-40 isn't a penetrating oil really.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    North Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by topcraig View Post
    Did you try vinegar?
    That's pretty funny. Did your grandmother tell you this? He's trying to free up the bushings.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Next time spray it down with WD-40 BEFORE you store it, to prevent this from happening in the first place, an ounce of prevention and all that.

    A couple decades ago one of the gun magazines did a comparison of different rust inhibitors, they coated pieces of bare steel with them and left them outside in the weather. The only thing that performed better than WD-40 was cosmoline, and WD-40 is MUCH easier to get off. Unless it gets submerged you should be fine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    108

    Default

    starting strength coach development program
    Electrolytic Rust Removal Aka Magic: 10 Steps (with Pictures)

    I know several people who have used this method and it works.

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