Barbell rust

[goran1862]

How do you guys get rid of it? My bar has few rusted spots so I wanted to give her a treatment

[AndrewLewis]

Scrape the shit out of it with a wire brush. If you really want to be aggressive, you can use an angle grinder with a brush attachment, but it will destroy the knurl.

Do not use mineral oil or paint thinner. Just a little bit of soapy water and scrap the hell out of it by hand. Once you're satisfied with its cleanliness, oil it lightly. "Oil lightly" means cover every area of surface and wipe with a paper towel until there's very little oil coming off onto a fresh paper towel. Then powder it with chalk.

[Satch12879]

Scrape the shit out of it with a wire brush. If you really want to be aggressive, you can use an angle grinder with a brush attachment, but it will destroy the knurl.

Do not use mineral oil or paint thinner. Just a little bit of soapy water and scrap the hell out of it by hand. Once you're satisfied with its cleanliness, oil it lightly. "Oil lightly" means cover every area of surface and wipe with a paper towel until there's very little oil coming off onto a fresh paper towel. Then powder it with chalk.

What's the thinking on not using a mild petroleum-based cleaner such as mineral spirits or naptha? I'd be very leery about using water on an uncoated steel bar if the goal was to remove rust. Actually, if I really wanted to get serious, I'd clean off the old oil with mineral spirits, then remove the rust with white vinegar, then immediately oil.

[MarinePMI]

Naval jelly will remove any and all rust (including any "patina" that is basically rust bluing) without negatively affecting the knurling. Realistically, you're best off just oiling it down and rubbing off the surface rust (which will still leave it with some "patina" of of the oxidation down in the pores of the metal). That "patina" (rust bluing) is actually more protective than scraping it down to bare metal, and should be encouraged, not removed. This is essentially the old process by which old firearms were given a dark, deep blue/black finish. Metal was allowed to rust, the oxidation was carded off, and then allowed to rust again. Each successive layer of rust provided a deeper and more durable finish that eventually would limit oxidation to the metal (since the oxidation in the pores of the metal essentially blocks out oxygen and moisture from reaching the metal to cause additional rust/oxidation).

JMTCW...

[Mark D]

...Then powder it with chalk.

Why would you do that? Chalk attracts moisture which would lead to more rust?

Best option: Avoid rust all together by wiping down LIGHTLY with WD-40 from the beginning, use a nylon brush to get the chalk out of the knurling every time it gets chalk in it. Re-apply WD-40 as required (probably every month or two).

Once rust has occurred I'd probably go with a bronze (not steel which will scratch the surface, increasing the surface area and giving more place for rust to form) wire brush and WD-40 to get the rust off, wipe clean, then oil lightly.

For those that poo-poo on WD-40, it's an excellent solvent and protectant (crappy lubricant though). I know a guy who makes injection-molding dies, the dies are made in the US then shipped to China or India where they're used. They spray everything with WD-40 before it's shipped out.

[goran1862]

Thanks guys, will the barbell be greasy from mineral oil/wd40?

And how lubricate sleeves? Mineral oil as well?

[dhalli]

Fuck WD40- that shit smells horrid. It is a great solvent, though... I just can't take the smell after occupationally using the shit. It's a fair protectant, but there are better products for something that'll be regularly handled.

Mineral oil is ok... if you can get your hands on Gibbs or Aerokroil, either will work great for a once every 6 months wipe down that actually *works*, no matter how humid it is.

[AndrewLewis]

What's the thinking on not using a mild petroleum-based cleaner such as mineral spirits or naptha? I'd be very leery about using water on an uncoated steel bar if the goal was to remove rust. Actually, if I really wanted to get serious, I'd clean off the old oil with mineral spirits, then remove the rust with white vinegar, then immediately oil.

Using a mineral spirits or WD-40 is actually TOO good at cleaning, so much so that it cleans out the pores of the steel and allows almost immediate reoxidation.
Ironically, people get worried about using water on uncoated steel, but as long as it's dried after, it's fine. It's not going to rust heavily in the half hour you're cleaning it.

WD-40 is an excellent cleaner for some applications, but it is not a lubricant which for some reason people think it is (probably because it stops squeaking right after application).

I've never used naval jelly.

Why would you do that? Chalk attracts moisture which would lead to more rust?

Why do you believe chalk attracts moisture?

Thanks guys, will the barbell be greasy from mineral oil/wd40?

WD40 should not be the final finish you put on the barbell.
Any oil you put on the barbell is going to leave it feeling oily. You basically just deal with it and chalk your hands extra on the first week or two.

[dhalli]

obvious alternative.... eat fried chicken pre workout. delicous, and the greaze will help protect the bar!

[MarkMarkMark]

I have a bare steel bar. I scrub it with a wire brush and then wipe it with a cotton towel after each workout. It takes 1 minute. The bar looks brand new and it's about a year old.