Reply With QuoteI haven't used it, but a platform is pretty cheap and easy to build. Rip gives instructions in SS, at least in the 2nd Ed. If I was going to buy that I would definitely use wood panels in the middle like it suggests you can.
Member
Rogue lifting platform
Have any of you used this thing? Is it any good?
http://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-oly-platform.php
I'm a little confused about how much the entire platform costs too, is the 245$ price on the right the price for the entire platform with the mats and everything?
Member
I haven't used it, but a platform is pretty cheap and easy to build. Rip gives instructions in SS, at least in the 2nd Ed. If I was going to buy that I would definitely use wood panels in the middle like it suggests you can.
Bulgaria
It's just a metal frame. The mats cost another $399. Frankly, it's hilarious that they even manufactured this. My 8'x8' platforms were about $250 to build. They are three layer plywood and stall mat platforms. You can buy stall mats for $40 each, so I don't see how this is better than getting $80 of stall mats from your local Tractor Supply Store. $650 for stall mats framed in metal? Really?Originally Posted by EliGreen
Member
No, that is just for the metal. You have to pay extra for the mats. So the price is more like $500 plus.
Member
Alright thanks for the clarity guys, the platform is way too expensive now that I know it's much more than the 250. I think I'll just end up working on building one with my grandpa like Tamara suggested.
Bulgaria
The platforms that I have in my gym are 8'x8', and they were built using the plans and video that my best Asian friend, Pete Haas, put together below.
The only difference is, I did not use MDF. I chose to use plywood instead because I like the feel of plywood AND because my gym space isn't insulated and can get damp (MDF and water don't mix well). Also, rather than have a stall mat inset, I just ran the stall mats down the entire length of the platform. You can see what mine look like in the videos in my training log, etc.
Weightlifting Platform Construction by Peter Haas:
We recently replaced 2 of our platforms with heavier duty versions. Here is how we constructed them. Our design follows the most popular theme out there, but we made 2 main adjustments. We cut handholds into the base to allow a degree of movability, and we only had access to rubber sections that were six feet long. Total cost for materials is about $200.
Materials List:
(1) 4x6ft rubber sheet, ¾ in thick
(4) 4×8 sections of plywood sheathing, ¾ in thick
(1) sheet of 4x8ft MDF, ¾ in thick
2x4ft section of scrap MDF (if you are making multiple platforms, just buy an extra sheet)
3 cans of liquid nails (plus application gun)
2lbs each of 2in and 1.25in coarse thread drywall screws
Tools: Drill and drill bit, Screwdriver, jigsaw, skillsaw, chalk line, measuring tape
Directions:
Take 2 of the plywood sections and cut handholds in them. You will be making 4 sets of handholds on the finished platform. On the 4ft end, measure about 12in from the edge and draw out rectangular handholds about 4in wide. Use a drill bit to put starter holes in the corners of the handholds. Use the jigsaw to cut out the handhold.
Cut down the MDF to size. The MDF is slightly longer than the plywood. Lay a sheet of plywood on top of the MDF and square them up. There will be a slight overhang on the long and the short side. Mark and cut off the overhang on the SHORT END ONLY (the 4ft end).
Make 2×2 sections of MDF. Use the scrap MDF you have to make (2) 2x2ft sections.
Lay the first layer. Lay down the plywood with the handholds cut into it and square it up. Apply the liquid nails with a ¼ in bead in an S-shaped pattern, paying special attention to the edges and around the handles.
Lay the second layer. Lay down the second layer of plywood perpendicular to the first (rotate it 90 degrees). As you lay each section down, square it up and put 1.25in screws in each corner to hold them in place.
Secure the second layer to the first. Drop chalk lines along each edge and perpendicular to the long end of the second layer. Drive in screws approximately 8 inches apart. The center chalk line will correspond to the seam between to two sheets in the first layer. Instead of dropping screws directly into this chalk line, place a row about 1in to either side to create a double seam. Drop 5 or 6 screws around the handholds in a horseshoe pattern to help reinforce those also.
Cut the rubber. Measure the midpoint of the 4ft end of the rubber sheet and drop a chalk line. Wedge a 2×4 underneath the mat. Use a box cutter to lightly score the chalk line. Keep working to deepen the cuts; the initial score mark should act as a guide. When done you will have (2) 2×6 sections of rubber.
Lay the top layer perpendicular to the second layer. Lay the 4×8 MDF sheet in the middle and the two rubber sheets on the side. There will be 2×2 gaps at the top of the rubber. Lay the 2×2 sections of MDF in these gaps. Square everything up and drop 2in screws in the edges of the MDF and the rubber. Be sure to make the screws flush to avoid snags.
Ready to lift!
Member
I didn't watch the whole video but that seems overly complicated. Just lay down 2 sheets of OSB going one way, 2 more on top going the other way and screw them down. Cut the horse stall mat down the middle and put them on either side. Slap a sheet of plywood down the middle and screw it all down. No glue, no chalk lines, no real cutting or measuring and you're done in 20 mins tops. Best of all, you can take it apart and move it if you ever need to because you didn't glue it. If you use OSB for the bottom layers it brings the price way down and it has tongue and groove edges so they fit together seamlessly.
Last edited by Tom Chase; 03-09-2013 at 08:53 PM.
Member
I used all 3/4" sanded ply for mine. It's built just like Tamara's. It's a beast. And it was a pain in the ass to move. Home Depot had a sale on the plywood I bought, so it only came out $10 or so more expensive than using OSB.
Member
I glued the first one I ever I built in a small one car garage. When I moved I couldn't get the damn thing out. It's probably still there.
Member
Yeah, mine barely fit through the garage door opening diagonally. It took every bit of strength myself and two buddies had.
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