SS and climbing

[celia]

Hello, I've seen a few threads here about SS and climbing but I still can't find any specific recommendations on programming or what is the best schedule to actually improve my climbing. I am a woman, started SS looking to gain strength, squat went from 90 to 225, deadlift from 135 to 200 (stuck here, that's another story).. so I have gained strength but I am looking to become a stronger climber. Currently at 7a+ (5.12a) and targeted to sport climbing.

For example, Is it best to do SS 2 days a week, climb 3, etc? Should I add in hangboard workouts? Should I modify the SS program in some way? Thanks for any advice you may have!

[Jeff Illingworth]

I know there are people who lift and climb and I know that it's been discussed on here several times.... but I don't know any particulars. So, here's a cheap answer: If you really like to climb and want that to be a priority over just getting strong, figure out how much climbing practice you need to do and then fit some strength training around it. If there's a season to climbing, decrease the climb practice in the "off season" and increase the weight training.

I've run into some climbers who've competed at the Starting Strength meets in Oakland. The first one who comes to mind is Natasha Barnes.

[jonfla]

If you really like to climb and want that to be a priority over just getting strong, figure out how much climbing practice you need to do and then fit some strength training around it. If there's a season to climbing, decrease the climb practice in the "off season" and increase the weight training.

I'd second what Jeff says here. If you've run out your LP, you'll want to program a combination of: climbing practice (technique development), sport specific training (e.g., hangboards and pull-up variations, limit effort bouldering), and continued strength training (barbells). How much of each depends on your strengths and weaknesses, proximity to comps, and your capacity to *recover.* You might also want some conditioning work, since weight management is a factor in climbing (though climbers seem to go overboard with this at the expense of strength development).

Good luck!

[Feng_Li]

weight management is a factor in climbing (though climbers seem to go overboard with this at the expense of strength development).

John Long has been saying this for decades.

[Bill Coyne]

Echoing what Jeff and jonfla have suggested. Programming-wise, treat it like any other sport.

Consider reaching out to SSC and expert climber Rob Miller for advice.