What is the precise ROM of your ankle? And this:is a ridiculous statement.Once I became an avid climber I stopped weight training and focused on training more for my sport (as any real athlete should).
Member
Severely Limiting Permanent Injuries
To make a long story short, I used to practice the Starting Strength method several years back (with great results I might add) before I got heavily involved in rock climbing. Once I became an avid climber I stopped weight training and focused on training more for my sport (as any real athlete should). However, about three years ago I was nearly killed while climbing when a boulder broke off and crushed the lower half of my leg. I was told I'd never walk again and that I'd probably need an amputation and that my military career was out of the question. Well, nine surgeries and 2.5 years of physical therapy later I am able to run well enough to stay in the military, and yes, I still rock climb. However, as a military pilot, I need to begin a strength routine again so that during high G maneuvers I can activate my muscles and fight against GLOC.
My injuries have left me unable to train as freely as I used to though. I have limited range of motion in my ankle which essentially prevents me from being able to do some very basic lifts so I was wondering what I could do to supplement those lifts with other exercises? The main problems I have are with:
- Squatting, I cannot physically get deep enough in my squat anymore, and anytime I try to even approach 90, I end up having to bend at the waste and the result is more like a cross between a squat and a good morning.
- Power cleans, if I tried to clean again I would literally destroy my ankle almost immediately. My foot simply cannot handle the crushing impact of a proper clean.
My question is, what other exercises can I do which would allow me to build power and strength without having to do squats or cleans?
I was thinking perhaps using a leg press? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Respectfully,
Frustrated Athlete
TMPHBITEU
What is the precise ROM of your ankle? And this:is a ridiculous statement.Once I became an avid climber I stopped weight training and focused on training more for my sport (as any real athlete should).
Member
I'll try to get precise measurements for you soon.
As for the other, lifting heavy weights arguably does more harm than good for climbers. Things like squats, cleans, presses, etc, are generally unnecessary and take the focus away from climbing, where it should be, and overemphasis other less useful muscle groups.
TMPHBITEU
My climbers say you don't know what you're talking about.
Member
If you have sufficient ankle mobility for running (not jogging but running proper) given enough time it can be improved further, allowing for a proper squat. Lifting shoes will help a whole lot, the high heels will lessen the ankle angle. Also, you may want to try front squats. they are slightly easier on the ankle angles and they will help you improve your mobility.
The stimulus that forces the rest of your body to adapt do not stop above your knees. The bad news is that, as a weak spot, you will only advance as fast as they can. Keep in mind that a set of 5 power cleans is a lot more gentle on your ankles than 2 miles of stumping the ground. They just need time to get used to the new stimulus.Power cleans, if I tried to clean again I would literally destroy my ankle almost immediately. My foot simply cannot handle the crushing impact of a proper clean.
✓ Member
Are you sure Red is not a troll? He comes to ask your opinion about strength training, and in the meantime dismisses squats and presses as reasonable things to do for his "sport". He also suggests leg pressing. Hmm.
Member
? ? ? ? I thought it is widely agreed as a fact that training with heavy( relative to the lifter/ individual ) weights using the basic compound movements protects against injury due to the fact that all structures are made stronger by the exposure to the stress of the loads lifted/ trained with. All types of climbing is more dangerous than lifting a barbell. . . . If I fall to the floor from a great height I break, if I drop the barbell I don't break :-/Originally Posted by Red
✓ Member
I often find that you need to achieve a certain level of proficiency in a sport to actually realize that training is incredibly important to performance in that sport, unless you're extremely gifted or don't desire to be that competitive, proficient, or better. There are, of course, points of diminishing returns, which are unique for each sport. As Rip has probably said before, discussion of these theoretical "points of diminishing returns" is a waste of time because of the small population of athletes who have or will ever get there.
For the OP, if you lack the ankle mobility to squat the leg press will likely be no better. Good mornings, pulls (deads, sumo & trap bar deads), rdl's, and perhaps bulgarian split squats? might be things to try. I would theorize that a box squat set at parallel or slightly above might be a good option, but I've only thought about ankle mobility's implications on squatting for about 40s this morning.
Member
Fellow former climber here
I had a rock climbing accident as well (crushed my ankle during a fall). I cannot run now but I can squat. It surprises me that you can run but cannot squat. My maximum shin angle (maximum dorsi-flexion) is about 10 degrees past vertical. It is quite possible to squat below paralell with such steep (near vertical) shin angles. High-bar and front squats are out of the question but low-bar is certainly doable. I'll post a video if you'd like (range of motion and a squat).
As for the rock climbing and weight training argument I can understand not wanting to gain any weight if you are doing a lot of high level bouldering or 5-13+ sport routes since many of those leave you with very small grips and do use a fair amount of upper body strength. With that said long trad routes and alpine style climbs necessitate leg strength and leg endurance. Squats would facilitate this. Even bouldering problems and tough sport routes benefit from strong legs due to the dynamic moves that are often required. You probably shouldn't do GOMAD and could use a different rep range for "climbing training" but to toss out weight training all together seems silly.
Member
Weight training is critical to climbing success.
I would know as I have been climbing since I was 14 and I'm 33 now. And I was at a pretty high level for sometime.
Anyway, if you can run then you can squat. Running is horrible on a person and by running I mean jogging which is actually not running....
Fuck, I can't run due to my goddamn knee but I squat 3 days a week.
Mark is it even possible to prevent the saltiness that develops as one ages.
Also, I heard you play in a band, trombone perhaps, is this true?
My father in law was a radio guy and enjoyed some of you recent posts.
Posting Permissions